Our Personal Guide to Frigiliana & Nerja
We want to share our personal highlights for two of our absolute favorite spots on the Costa del Sol: Frigiliana and Nerja. Frigiliana is this pristine white village tucked into the mountains, while Nerja is its vibrant coastal neighbor. They're just a 15-minute drive apart, and in our experience, they offer the perfect mix of history, beautiful beaches, and amazing nature.
Frigiliana: Our Favorite White Village
Frigiliana is often called the most beautiful village in Andalusia, and we can definitely see why. We love getting lost in its labyrinth of whitewashed houses and cobbled streets. The panoramic views from up there are just stunning.
What We Recommend Doing
- Wander the Moorish Quarter (Barrio Morisco): This is the absolute heart of the village for us. Our tip: leave the main path and just allow yourselves to get lost in the narrow, flower-filled alleys. Keep an eye out for the 12 ceramic plaques that tell the story of the Morisco revolt—it's a fascinating way to experience the local history.
- Visit El Ingenio (Palace of the Counts): This 16th-century building is not just historic; it's also the last working sugar cane honey (miel de caña) factory in Europe. A truly unique place!
- Hike to the Lizar Castle Ruins: The climb is a bit steep, but we promise the effort is worth it. The panoramic view of the village, the coast, and the sea is absolutely spectacular.
- Church of San Antonio de Padua: We always find it fascinating how this church was built on the site of an old mosque. Make sure to look up at the beautiful Mudéjar-style ceiling.
What You Have to Eat
The local food is incredible and reflects the mountain heritage. Based on our experience, you absolutely can't leave without trying:
- Berenjenas con miel de caña: The signature dish! Fried eggplant drizzled with local sugar cane honey. A heavenly sweet and savory combination.
- Choto al ajillo: A hearty and incredibly delicious stew made from tender young goat slow-cooked in garlic and wine.
- Our Restaurant Tips: For an authentic meal, we love going to La Taberna del Sacristán. For a dinner with an unforgettable view, we highly recommend The Garden Restaurant or El Mirador.
Nerja: Sun, Sea & Our Underground Discoveries
From the tranquility of Frigiliana, it's a short drive down to the lively town of Nerja. We love the energy of this place, its beautiful coves, and, of course, the world-famous caves.
Our Top Sights
- Balcón de Europa (Balcony of Europe): This is the heart of Nerja and our favorite spot for an evening stroll (paseo). The views of the Mediterranean from this cliff-top promenade are breathtaking.
- Nerja's Old Town: From the Balcón, our favorite thing to do is wander through charming streets like Calle Pintada, discovering little boutiques, ice cream parlors, and tapas bars.
An Absolute Must-See: The Caves of Nerja
Visiting the caves was a mind-blowing experience for us. You feel like you've entered another world. The highlight is the world's largest natural column, a gigantic stalagmite. And knowing that there are cave paintings here that are over 25,000 years old is just incredible.
Our Tip: Your cave ticket also includes entry to the Museum of Nerja. We strongly advise you to book tickets online in advance to avoid long lines, especially in high season.
Our Favorite Beaches
- For Families & Activities (Playa Burriana): This is the largest and most lively beach. The promenade is great, and you have to try the giant paella cooked over an open fire at Chiringuito Ayo. We've also rented kayaks here.
- For Nature Lovers & Snorkeling (Playa de Maro): For us, this is one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Spain. The water is crystal-clear and turquoise—perfect for snorkeling. From here, you can kayak to hidden caves and the stunning Maro waterfall.
- For Postcard Views (Playa Calahonda & El Salón): These two picturesque coves are right next to the Balcón de Europa and are perfect for a quieter beach experience with a beautiful backdrop.
Our Adventure Tips
Coastal Kayaking
One of the best experiences we had was taking a guided kayak tour from Maro beach. Paddling along the dramatic cliffs, venturing into sea caves, and seeing the waterfall cascade directly into the sea was unforgettable.
A Very Important Note from Us: The Río Chillar Walk is CLOSED
We were disappointed to hear this too, but please be aware that the famous Río Chillar river walk has been officially closed to the public indefinitely since August 2023. Access is prohibited, and you can be fined for trespassing. The closure is to protect the fragile environment and for public safety. Please respect this to help preserve this natural gem for the future.
Local Life: Festivals & Markets We've Enjoyed
Our Favorite Festivals
If you can, we highly recommend timing your visit to catch a local festival. The atmosphere is just incredible!
When |
Festival |
Our Experience |
Mid-June |
Feria de San Antonio (Frigiliana) |
A wonderfully traditional fair with processions, music, and a great local vibe. |
June 23rd |
Noche de San Juan (Nerja) |
A magical night on the beaches with bonfires and the traditional midnight swim for good luck. |
Last weekend of August |
Festival of Three Cultures (Frigiliana) |
Our absolute favorite! The whole village turns into a huge market with music and performers. The Tapa Route is legendary. |
Second week of October |
Feria de Nerja |
The town's biggest party. A lively, fun-filled fair with rides, flamenco, and parades. |
Our Tips for the Weekly Markets
- Frigiliana Market (Thursday): A charming, smaller market with great local produce and crafts.
- Nerja Market (Tuesday): A large, bustling Spanish market where you can find almost anything.
- Nerja Flea Market (Sunday): Held in the same spot as the Tuesday market. We always try to get there early to hunt for the best treasures.
Our Advice for Planning Your Trip
Best Time to Visit, In Our Opinion
- Spring (April-May) & Autumn (September-October): These are the ideal times for us. The weather is warm but not too hot, and it's less crowded than summer. In autumn, the sea is still perfect for swimming.
- Summer (June-August): The hottest and busiest time. Perfect for a pure beach holiday, but we would book everything well in advance.
- Winter (November-March): The quietest season. We enjoy the mild temperatures and experiencing the towns like locals.
Our Perfect Day Trip Itinerary
Start your morning in Frigiliana to explore the cool alleys. Enjoy lunch with a view. In the afternoon, head to Nerja to see the magnificent caves. End your day watching the sunset from the Balcón de Europa, followed by tapas in the old town.
Our Ideal Three-Day Immersion
- Day 1: Nerja's Coast. Spend the day at the beaches. Enjoy the buzz of Playa Burriana (with paella!), then take an afternoon kayak tour from Playa de Maro.
- Day 2: Frigiliana's History & Food. Explore the old quarter, visit El Ingenio, and enjoy a long, traditional lunch.
- Day 3: Caves & Culture. Visit the Nerja Caves in the morning, then explore Nerja's old town before a final seaside dinner.